Thursday, 12 October 2017

Her name is Rio and she dances on the sand

Brazil

Rio de Janeiro
Copacabana
 We made it! We were finally out of Colombia and in Rio de Janeiro. I have dreamed of coming here since I was a youngster and we’d arrived. Brazil is massive, Rio is massive, and it took us a while, but we eventually made it on the bus from the airport to our apartment for the next 3 days right next to Ipanema beach. Super cool part of the city, near a lovely beach, in a trendy, cosmopolitan area, and not far from the famous Copacabana beach. Which song is in your head right now?!
Copacabana

We settled in with a bit of dinner and a few drinks and the next day we eventually found out how to get to go up to meet Jesus, overlooking the city, AKA Christ the Redeemer. It was a bit of an effort because we were struggling to buy a sim card for a start, so we were on the backfoot straight away. 

We’d googled where to go to buy the tickets and take the shuttle bus up to the huge statue and there were only 3 places in the whole city to do so. We ended up on the bus to the wrong place of course. Luckily for us we found a couple of tour guides who spoke English, but they told us we were miles from our destination. It soon transpired that they assumed we had already bought tickets to see Christ the Redeemer (we hadn’t) and we had actually stumbled across one of the other places in this enormous city where you can buy tickets and take the bus. That was weird but a great coincidence. Thanks Jesus.
Copacabana

The bus ride up to the statue took around 40 minutes and we stopped once or twice to take in the views as we ascended. Once we were at the top, or what we thought was the top, we had to jump in another bus and then a lift to take us even further up. 
Christ the Redeemer


 Christ the Redeemer is an awesome piece of art built to counteract the apparent increasing godlessness of the country. Its construction commenced in 1922 and took 7 years to complete, and it stands on Mount Corcovado, at a height of 38m.

The next day we decided to take the metro into the old part of the city to visit some museums and see some culture. What is it with us and wanting to visit museums when they’re closed?? (Tuesday by the way). We did make it to the Escadaria Selarón though.
Escadaria Selarón
These are a fascinating, colourful set of tiled steps in a poorer part of town where Chilean artist Jorge Selarón lived. The steps were dilapated and Selarón wanted to do something to brighten them up and to give something back to his adopted city, so he began to decorate them with tiles. There are 2000 tiles from around 60 countries and cover 215 steps. Poor Selarón was found dead in 2013 on the steps.

Caipirinha
We spent that afternoon strolling through Copacabana along the seafront, people watching, talking to locals, soaking up the atmosphere, the music and the capirinhas.

Lots of nakedness in Rio
We made a mistake not staying longer in Rio. It is a fabulous, vibrant city where people don’t wear much, and we absolutely didn’t do it justice. One to go back to.

Sao Paulo
We took a bus from Rio to Sao Paulo, and one of the reasons for us not staying longer in Rio was because we wanted to try and get football tickets for the match that night in Sao Paulo. It was the final world cup qualifier matches in the South American group, and we wanted to go to the Brazil Chile game. 

After checking into a cool little hotel in a rough part of town, we headed over to the stadium. The heavens opened almost immediately but thankfully we were 200 metres from the metro, although it was easier said than done finding the stadium from the metro at the other end. We were quoted 500 Reais per Brazil ticket and 350 for Chile. 

Disappointed, we walked away. It was too much for us. We grabbed some cheap dinner and thought it over. We’d never get the chance again, we’d come a long way and if we had a few cheap meals for the next few nights we could do it. If we went in the Chile end! So we headed back to the stadium’s ticket office and were immediately told that the tickets had sold out. Just our luck. I persevered, asking 'Boletos para Chile??' And we were waved forward to buy tickets for the Chile end.

As we walked in with the thousands of other fans, we were stopped at the turnstile because our tickets were unreadable. We hung around waiting for a security guard to take us through and when we finally got to our block we were turned away, saying our tickets weren’t valid there. By this time the match had kicked off and we were getting a bit fractious. We found another security guard who escorted us to different block which had some empty seats and as we were hurrying along, managed to boot off his shoe and whack a girl straight up the head with it. That cheered us up. I have no idea how he managed it, but it was hilarious and stopped our moaning in its tracks. 

In the end we only missed the first 5 minutes and although we had paid less for Chile tickets, we ended up in some great seats in the Brazil end. The game wasn’t Brazil’s best display but they had already qualified and won 3-0. We (and everyone else in the stadium) were half hoping Chile would win so that they would qualify and knock Argentina out, but it was not to be. It was a great atmosphere with Mexican waves, hotdogs and even ‘the referee’s a wanker’ in Portuguese. 

The next morning we took a walk around the city, visiting the Se Cathedral, the Roman Catholic Gothic style building, constructed in 1954. Sao Paulo is vast, if we thought Rio was big, it has nothing on Sao Paulo. 22 million people live in its metropolitan sprawl, with around 12 million in the city proper. Interestingly it has the largest Japanese population outside of Japan itself.
Se Cathedral

Later that day we strolled over to the Museu do Futebol, or the Football Museum. This is a must for any footy fans. It showcases the history of football in Brazil through videos and interviews (they play a bit there), talks you through the rules of the game, tells you about women’s football which was much more popular at first than men’s, has a fantastic display on the World Cups through the ages, including what was happening in each era, and then at the end, there is table football, virtual football like playing on a Wii, and penalty kicks. 
 
We even had the chance to hold replicas of the World Cup trophies. Interesting fact: the original Jules Rimet trophy was pinched in England in 1966 which most people know about, found by Pickles the dog, and then it was nicked in Brazil in 1983 after Brazil were allowed to keep it having won it 3 times, but it was never recovered. The museum was awesome and only cost $10 Reais (about £2.50).
Football musem

After that we headed to an art gallery on famous Paulista Avenue, the Museu de Arte de Sao Paulo which features works by Van Gogh, Matisse, Monet and Cezanne among others. It also had an erotic exhibition by Pedro Correia, and a Guerrilla Girls display, showcasing the fight for gender equality, especially in the arts.
Meseu de Arte

We were booked on a free walking tour the next day which was to a part of the city called Vila Madalena. This is an area in Pinheiros, and has a reputation for being artsy, hip and bohemian, with its trendy galleries, cafes and bars. It’s also well-known for its street art on Beco do Batman, an galler-alley (see what I did there?) full of murals, including a fairly recent addition by Ronnie Wood from the Rolling Stones. It started off as a student area, having cheap accommodation near the university, but with this type of resident comes libraries, book stores, cafes and bars, and soon, as in London and other big, expensive cities, the students were pushed out to make way for richer residents that wanted somewhere cool to live. After the tour we hung around Vila Madalena for some great grill and cocktails.
Batman Alley

Another day another walking tour! This time of the old downtown area. We had actually covered a lot of this on our second day but we learnt a bit more about the city and its buildings, including the Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil, originally a ban and now a cultural centre, and the Martinelli Building which was the first skyscraper in the city, completed in 1929. We were a bit walking tour fatigued after that.
Sao Paulo
Not the most beautiful city but really interesting and loads to see and do. We barely touched the sides.

#brazil  #riodejaneiro #copacabana #ipanema #christtheredeemer #saopaulo #escadariaselaron #martinellibuilding #becodobatman #footballmuseumsaopaulo


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