Pushkar and the pink one, Jaipur

Pushkar

Pushkar is a very holy place for Hindus, having the most prominent Brahma Temple in the world, Jagatpita Brahma Mandir. 

Jagatpita Brahma Mandir

This also meant that meat and alcohol are prohibited, although outside of the city limits we were able to get a beer in one of those English wine shops. 

Gurudwara in Pushkar

We walked through the town, stopping off to see the Gurudwara (Sikh Temple), then on through the market which catered pretty much solely for tourists, round the lake and took the cable car up the mountain to Savitri Temple. This was terrifying as the cable car looked about 500 years old and it stopped halfway for 5 minutes for no apparent reason, leaving us swaying in the wind. When we reached the top we found that the temple was actually closed. It would have been helpful if there had been a sign at the bottom saying that, or if someone at the ticket counter had told us, but if there’s money involved that’s usually all that counts.

Pushkar lake - ghat

On our way back, we spoke to a shop owner who recommended that we hire a scooter and drive out to see Aloo Baba, a sadhu (holy man) who lived about 10km from the city, in the forest. We met another couple, Ivan and Larisa on the way with the same idea as us, only they had actually done some research and had a bunch of bananas and a bag of potatoes with them because Aloo Baba only eats potatoes. (The word aloo is Hindi for potato, hence the nickname Aloo Baba).

Aloo Baba

When we arrived, Aloo Baba was very welcoming and we sat with him asking him questions about his life. He passed round the bananas, and seemed over the moon with the bag of potatoes. 

Aloo Baba told us in broken English how he had left his family home which was more than 1000km from Pushkar, around 55 years ago, to live a simple, meditative life. He had been living in the forest for 18 years, surviving only on spuds, talking to visitors occasionally and meditating for 5 hours a day. He told us that the only important things were the universe, controlling his own human behaviour and impulses, and self-discipline - by doing without life’s comforts such as his family and different food etc. All very deep, until he pulled out a packet of beedi (cheap cigarettes). So much for control and discipline! I suppose he is only human and we all need some sort of vice or release.

Artwork by a visitor

Aloo Baba showed us around the small white temple he lived next to, where visitors had painted murals representing control. The best thing about this temple however, was that it had a slide!

Temple slide

That evening we met up with Ivan and Larisa for a drink. Ivan had asked us if he could interview us for his podcast series that he’d been doing throughout his travels. That was fun but we were a bit unprepared and of course Baby D had no filter as ever! Not sure Ivan will be able to use much of it as we were offending everyone with our tales and opinions!

Aloo Baba's Temple

There wasn’t loads to do in Pushkar. I quite liked it although it was chockablock full of tourists; many of them what we are calling ‘ethnics’ – western tourists that go all out embracing the culture, wearing the typical traveller clothing (what they perceive to be local or traditional dress, even though the locals are in jeans and t-shirts), usually barefoot, dripping with beads, often sporting dreadlocks and sometimes carrying or playing a guitar or drums. 

For want of anything to do, we hired a scooter on the second day. Within 15 minutes, we had a flat tyre. We called the shop which was a stupid thing to do actually, as they charged us 400 rs to change it. Twenty minutes later, we got another flat tyre. Bearing in mind the whole tyre had been changed rather than just repaired after the first flat, we were pretty annoyed. As luck would have it the second breakdown was outside a mechanics, and the repair cost us 50rs. We returned the scooter to the shop and demanded some of our money back, which we got given - reluctantly. 

We stopped in town for lunch for some great paneer and pizza (is this veggie lifestyle growing on me?!) The owner was a crazy guy called Mango that supplied us with beer, but disguised in a teapot with 2 mugs. 

Nice refreshing cuppa

We stayed at his bar for most of the afternoon and staggered back to the hotel to watch a folk dance that a Dutch couple with more money than sense had booked. We had a drink and a chat with Heather and Gavin, a couple in their late 40s who had quit their jobs to go travelling. They are doing a lot of the same trip as us and they are keeping us updated through a Facebook blog, although they seem to be having a better time than us (or they’re glossing over the bad bits!) Saying that, Heather did fall off a cliff in Kerala. Turned out to be 2 foot high though.  

Later on we went back to Mango’s bar for more drinks and food and we finally got to try the famous dessert, ‘Hello to the Queen’, which is about a million calories and consists of vanilla ice-cream, crushed chocolate biscuits, fresh banana, and caramel sauce or hot fudge.

Away to Jaipur!

Jaipur

Jaipur is the capital of the state of Rajasthan and I for one had been looking forward to coming here. It’s the pink city, and specialises in gems so it is right up my street. It was huge, sprawling, quite dirty, busy and had a main road which seemed to cut right through the centre of our part of the city. It also wasn’t as pink as we thought it would be. Maybe we’ve been spoilt by starting in Udaipur and having done the smaller, quainter cities first. Jaipur was okay but perhaps our expectations were too high. I would go back one day if only to see the sights that we missed as I was sick on the second day.

City Palace

Our miniature painting

On day 1, we spent a couple of hours in the City Palace which was lovely; full of art and history. We got to meet an artist specialising in miniature paintings. His creations were fantastic and had we not been travelling we would have bought a couple. As it was, he drew us a picture so we have that memory (for free) instead.

After City Palace (sounds like a football fixture) we went to Jantar Mantar which is where there is a huge collection of massive sundials, astronomical and astrological instruments. India is really big on myth, legend, lore, and the cosmos, so these instruments have always been very important. Many Hindu families get the astrological charts of their newborn babies drawn up, and they are often used in arranging marriages to check compatibility.

Jantar Mantar

We climbed Isarlat Victory Tower, and visited Hawa Mahal which is a gorgeous palace from afar. Up close it is more of a building façade as the actual building is so narrow.

Hawa Mahal

We then went to the beautiful Nahagarh Fort to watch the famous sunset over Jaipur. It was a shame about the haze over the city though, which was probably pollution. Baby D had been leaning on a railing while I took a selfie of us and the whole set of railings fell over with an almighty crash. He panicked as he thought he was falling over the edge of the fort. Everyone was in stitches laughing at him.

Part of Nahagarh Fort

Galta

The next day, I was feeling less than great but we decided to go to the Sisodia Rani Bagh, some pretty gardens. Bobby then took us to Galta Temple where we saw a 6 legged cow. This was a site with some beautiful old buildings and temples. After that we headed over to Vidhyadhar Bagh which is a lovely garden built in memory of Jaipur’s main architect.

Vidhyadhar Bagh

I soon needed to get back to the hotel because I felt so ill and that was it for the rest of the day. We missed the Amer, or Amber Fort which is one of Jaipur’s main attractions, but we got a photo the next morning before leaving for Ranthambore. Who needs to see another fort anyway?!

6 legged cow

 So far the trip has been amazing and fitting in work has been easy enough, especially through Rajasthan where we’ve travelled huge distances in the car with plenty of downtime to work. I can’t believe we have been away for 2 months already, it has flown by, although we are missing friends and family. Baby D might actually be worse than me, because he has nothing to keep his mind occupied. I am working and writing this blog so I am keeping busy.

Ranthambore

Deer in the national park

Ranthambore is best known for its national park and tiger safaris. We went on the jeep safari with 4 others, and we allegedly spotted a leopard, sightings of which are rarer than tigers. I may have seen its tail, but it might have been a stick. We definitely didn’t see a tiger and I am not convinced there are any in there! 

Ranthambore Fort

Other than the national park, which was huge and very beautiful, there wasn’t much else in Ranthambore, apart from a 13^th century fort. (Of course there was a fort!)

#pushkar #rajasthan #jaipur #ranthamborefort #jagatpitabrahmamandir #savitritemple #aloobaba #hellotothequeen

 

The Blue City, Jodhpur, and the City of Gold, Jaisalmer

Jodhpur

The Blue City

Jodhpur, the blue city. On the first morning we walked up to...yes, you’ve guessed it...the fort! (Mehrangarh). Again, great views of the city, amazing architecture and history.

Mehrangarh Fort

Another of the fort

I am being a bit flippant but the forts in India are amazingly well preserved in general, and the detail that goes into the art and architecture is really impressive. Even the less well preserved forts are magnificent – in fact I prefer them.

We took a stroll around the clock tower (Ghanta Ghar) market where I was assaulted by a couple of 5 year old boys chucking stones, and later on we went to Kaylana lake. There has been a lake in every town in Rajasthan I think, usually artificial, but all very scenic once the litter is overlooked.

We met some crazy screaming fans there; a whole family on holiday who took hundreds of pics of us and the dad, who had had a few too many beers, invited us over for dinner. We were completely taken aback at how ‘star-struck’ they were. Later on, Bobby told us about a cheap place for lunch and guess who we pull up right next to?! The family started screaming and waving, so we looked at each other and both yelled at Bobby to put his foot down and get out of there.

After lunch somewhere miles and miles from there, we headed over to Jaswant Thada, a marble mausoleum built by a Maharajah in memory of his father at the end of the 19^th century. We drove up to Umaid Bhawan Palace, a magnificent building which had been the main residence of the royal family of Jodhpur.

Umaid Bhawan Palace

Me at Jaswant Thada

A few weeks before, we had been invited to a wedding by Chandra, our Delhi driver, and by now we were panicking a bit about what to wear. We had been told that I had to wear a sari and Baby D had to go in a Punjabi suit or something traditional. After going to a few shops and being accosted by some top-notch rip-off merchants we ran out of patience and decided not to bother with the traditional dress. We would only wear the outfits once and then have to get rid of them because we are travelling, so it was a complete waste of money. Baby D had nothing to wear as we had just done a laundry run, so he ended up in a hoody, a pair of my black cotton trousers, socks and sandals and a scarf! Very dapper I must say. I had a dress which I wore as a top with jeans. 

Wedding party

 

We were on the groom’s side so we met at an apartment block a few kilometres outside of the city, where the groom and his entourage were staying, him being from Delhi. We stayed there for about an hour, drinking and dancing. We were without doubt the centre of attention and we felt bad for the groom as no one seemed to be paying him any mind. We danced our way up the lane towards the actual wedding venue, getting lost twice on the way. How, I do not know as it was a straight road, barely more than a kilometre long.

Bride

Close to the entrance to the wedding venue we noticed a man lying prone in a muddy ditch. Baby D and I rushed to help him up while everyone else ignored him. When we picked him up and as he came round, he asked us why we had woken him up. He was sleeping off the whiskey, getting ready for round 2! When we finally got to the venue, we were hustled over to the buffet and our plates were filled while we waited for the bride to arrive. She was brought in on a carriage, looking stunning, made up to the nines with gold jewellery dripping from her throat, nose, ears and wrists.

There were men there somewhere

The whole event was great fun and very opulent. Everyone was really welcoming. I had expected the bride to be in floods of tears as I had seen at other Asian weddings, because she was leaving her family to live with her new husband and his family, but this bride looked really happy. Perhaps the tears would come later, the celebrations were to go on for days.

Jaisalmer

The Golden City

Jaisalmer is known as the Golden City, resplendent in the middle of the desert and close to the Pakistan border.

We somehow got railroaded into staying at a desert camp for the night, which included typical Rajasthani food (lots of veggies and lentils), Rajasthani folk dancing and singing around a fire, and a sunset or sunrise camel ride. We had done something similar in Dubai on holiday in mid-2016 although we didn’t stay overnight, and we were not bothered about repeating the experience. Anyway, through a mis-communication or something we ended up at the camp in a village called Khuri.(Actually I think Bobby just pretended not to hear us and we were not really too bothered about going there or not, so we didn’t protest too much).

The singing and dancing show was pleasant enough but we have seen this sort of thing so many times before – sometimes I feel as though its only in the UK that we don’t put on this type of show (how many tourists go to see a morris dancing show? We should start capitalising on this!) The food was not the best as it was a luke-warm buffet. The evening was not improved by our driver who was absolutely battered and wouldn’t leave us alone, so we disappeared for an early night just to avoid him. 

We were up early the next day for the sunrise camel ride – we’d arrived too late for the sunset one after Bobby had stopped 50 times for a sickly sweet roadside chai and a ‘beedi’ (cheap ciggies that are apparently 10 times less bad than normal filtered fags! Keep telling yourself that Bobby) and we were the only ones to go on the sunrise one, which was nice. 

So far we’d not had a great experience in Khuri and we’d been told to be ready for 6.15am. Bearing in mind it was freezing cold, we got up and ready to go, but when no one had shown up by 7am Baby D stormed off in a ‘that’s it! We’re leaving!’ rage, in search of Bobby to get the car ready.

Finally, somebody woke up and took us to our waiting camels for our early morning ride. I was shown to Shiva, a beautiful blonde who refused to walk in a straight line, and Baby D’s ride was a bubbly brunette called Laal, and bubbly he was. I have never heard farts like it, and I was helpfully down-wind too. 

My camel, Shiva

Apart from ripping half my fingernail off on the saddle on my ascent, we had a great time. We walked in darkness for about 2km then stopped in the Thar Desert for half an hour to watch the sun come up as our guides built a fire. We were frozen stiff but enjoyed every minute of it.

Mural in Jaisalmer

After leaving Khuri, we headed into Jaisalmer city. We walked up to the fort and around the small town, but we didn’t go in as we were forted out and saving our pennies. I think that was a mistake though, as I’ve seen some fellow travellers’ pics and it looks amazing.

Fort

It has a Jain temple inside apparently, and from what we’ve seen of these types of temple, they’re pretty impressive and very ornate. 

Later on, Bobby wanted to take us to an old village in the desert called Kuldhara, that was eerily abandoned overnight and consequently the legend was that it was haunted. Nothing to do with the fact that the villagers probably left due to having no water or crops of course, but this is India remember, and nothing gets in the way of a good story. 

Bobby had arranged with some other drivers to leave the hotel at 2pm to go Kuldhara, as he was going to follow them, not knowing the way himself. He failed however, to tell us, and we weren’t ready to go on time. 

As was becoming his habit, Bobby asked me for directions using Google maps on my phone, and we left about half an hour after everyone else. All over Rajasthan Bobby had asked to use my Google maps and then disregarded its directions, changing his mind just as my battery was about to die. This time, he followed the directions to the letter and we ended up driving off road in the middle of the desert. Yep, we were going more and more off the beaten track, in a crappy Delhi taxi with bald tyres. 

Three hours later, after visions of us being eaten by vultures flashed through my mind, we found a road. Bobby gave a nervous laugh about my useless GPS, and I told him off, asking him what sort of driver didn’t know where anything was? I felt a bit bad about yelling at him, as he was probably worried about us all dying of heat exhaustion and thirst in the desert, but he got the message. He was never the same with me after that – much more wary and formal after a Tara Tantrum.

We gave up on the village and went back to Jaisalmer, ready to head to Pushkar. 

#jodhpur #rajasthan #jaisalmer #kuldhara #mehrangarh #jaswantthada #ghantaghar #kaylanalake #umaidbhawanpalace #thardesert