Delhi, in at the deep end

1 December 2016 – London Heathrow to Delhi, India

Our journey begins with India. First stop, Delhi. India is quite often where seasoned travellers finish their journey, rather than novices starting their journey like us, but in for a penny, in for a pound. We love a challenge (plus the flights were cheap).

We flew Air India which was an experience in itself. There were very few westerners apart from a couple of aging hippies – one of whom lay on the floor for most of the flight. It was fine really, the toilets were nasty, the food was good.

After queuing for an hour at Delhi airport for cash we were off to the hotel. India’s government has recently outlawed 500 and 1000 rupee notes which account for 86% of the currency. It’s a bit like the UK getting rid of £5 and £10 notes I suppose, or worse. Money is in really short supply and everyone is limited to withdrawing 2000 rs (about £25) per day from the ATMs, but already we can see that even getting that much is going to be a challenge because the queues are ridiculous.

We reached the hotel and at first glance it seemed great. Until we noticed the bedsheets which had blatantly not been changed for weeks. Welcome to India! The young guy that came to change them once we complained obviously couldn’t be bothered because after changing the sheet informed us that he would do the quilt tomorrow. Err, don’t think so matey.

Cycle rickshaw - this isn't Rahul though!

Jama Masjid

Off we went for a walk into town to see one of the biggest mosques in India, Jama Masjid. As it turned out, women are not allowed in after dusk so we would have to wait for another time. We ate in a very good restaurant serving northern India/Pakistani style food, called Karim’s, which David had found via Lonely Planet, then we took a cycle rickshaw to the Red Fort for the sound and light show. 

The cycle rickshaw driver Rahul, told us about his life, pulling tourists around Delhi. He wasn’t actually from Delhi – it soon became apparent that many Indians travel to where the work is – Rahul was from the north, and he leaves his family to work in Delhi, seeing them only once every few months and sleeping in a car or rolled up in a blanket.

The cycle rickshaw drivers work really hard pulling usually 2 or 3 tourists (or about 7 locals!) around in a cart attached to a push-bike. It is pretty heavy going and they have to be strong. 

Rahul took us round the spice markets and wedding stalls and we stopped to try some pani puri. Pani puri literally translates to water bread. They are small patties that are fried to make air-filled buns, and then savoury spicy water is poured in and eaten quickly before the water makes the bread too soggy, or leaks out. 

Baby D’s birthday

Market in Delhi

We headed back into town for some breakfast before I went off to a meeting I had arranged (see, I am working!) I was actually meant to be on leave throughout December but as I couldn’t guarantee when I would be back in Delhi, I didn’t mind. On our walk into town, we started chatting to a passer-by who ‘helpfully’ took us to a tourist shop (wonder how much commission he got!?) as we wanted a driver for the day and we needed to get a sim card. We were talked in to employing Chandra as our driver for the next few days and we booked up some of our onward travel. Oddly enough Chandra spoke probably better Italian than English which worked fairly well for us as I had been brushing up on my Italian before we left (for no particular or useful reason; I would have been better off practising Hindi but when did anything I do ever make sense?!)

Chandra took us all over Delhi, including stopping off for breakfast which was masala dosa and idli. (pronounced idd-lee). Dosa is a thin round ‘crepe’ with spiced potato in the middle, served with sambar, which is a thin lentil soup, and curd. Idli is a kind of ground rice patty served with sambar and chutney. 

That day we went to India Gate, where we were asked several times for selfies with Indian people as though we were celebrities. We visited the Lotus Temple which is a place of worship for all religions, and the building is shaped like a lotus (strangely enough!) After heading back to the tourist office to pick up the sim card, we were greeted with a birthday cake that the staff had organised, complete with ‘Happy Birthday Baby D’!

India Gate, Delhi

Chandra invited us to his house that evening, to eat with his family, so we picked up a couple of beers for us, some whiskey for Chandra, and some food, and off we went. Chandra only lived a few streets from our hotel in Pahar Ganj, in a building that his family owns, with his father on one floor with Gerry the dog, his brother and his wife and two daughters on the top floor and then Chandra, his wife and three boys in the middle. Each family lived in one room, with a toilet and the kitchen outside in the hallway. Although very small and basic, it was spotless and we were yelled at for not removing our shoes. 

Chandra’s wife had made us chapatis and a dhal to go with our takeaway, and was very apologetic that she hadn’t cooked properly for us as it was a last minute thing. We were treated like royalty and ended up dancing like lunatics with the extended family. 

Chandra’s eldest boy (16 years old, and a hairdo that Elvis would be proud of) took us out onto the roof… not sure we were covered for that by our insurance, (I would imagine it would come under extreme sports). We saw a spectacular view of Delhi, and it’s one memory that both of us have said will stay with us. The other boys were dancing and wrestling, typical lads. After being shown off in the street, where we saw a wedding party dance past, got bought some jalebi  - a deep fried batter soaked in sugar syrup - by the local bigwig, and saw a poor lady lamenting her husband who had recently ‘expired’, we were escorted back to our hotel in the car by Chandra’s nephew and his youngest son. After a half bottle of whiskey, Chandra was too pissed to drive anywhere by then.

Delhi from the roof

Chandra’s house was palatial in comparison to what we had seen in the surrounding parts of Delhi. People sleep anywhere and everywhere in the streets of Delhi and it is normal to stroll past people shitting in the gutter. The sheer amount of people in Delhi is overwhelming and the traffic would be almost comical if it wasn’t so dangerous. How drivers don’t wear their horns out is a mystery. There are almost as many cows and dogs as there are people; it is hard to comprehend the filth in the streets in the poorer parts. 

Agra

Taj Mahal in case you hadn't guessed

A hungover Chandra picked us up at 7am to take us to Agra, home of the Taj Mahal. After a 3 and a half hour drive in the thickest fog I have ever seen, we arrived. We almost didn’t make it in as we had no cash, and despite being assured that we would be able to pay the entrance fee with credit card, the card machine was out of order. Thankfully our tour guide covered our costs, and we were in. If you were wondering, yes. It really does live up to the hype. The architecture is truly breathtaking. It was built by Persians in 1632 for the Shah’s third wife Mumtaz, who died at the age of 39 in childbirth with her 14^th child.

It took 22 years to build and the marble used was carried to India by elephant from Persia. If any worker messed up the carving of the marble they were hanged. Tough gig. The Shah was later chucked into prison by his son who didn’t want him to use his inheritance to pay for the construction of a black Taj Mahal opposite – which would have been the Shah’s crypt. 

After visiting the Taj, we got our first real taste of the money problems in India as we had to queue for what felt like hours to withdraw some cash from the ATM to pay back the entry fee sub to the tour guide. Back to Delhi and brain curry for Baby D’s dinner. I think it was goat brain, and it was white and quite creamy in texture. It didn’t have a strong flavour but for me, the whole idea of it was pretty nasty.

Delhi again

The following day we headed back to Jama Masjid – the mosque in the centre of Delhi, and back to the Red Fort in daylight. Chandra dropped us off in the middle of Old Delhi and Baby D stopped to get his hair cut by a guy in the street. 65p and we were probably overcharged. Old Delhi was absolutely mental. A market which sold everything from clothes to fruit and veg, and children’s toys, which was buzzing with life – human and animal; and scooters zipping through the throng of people like annoying mosquitoes.

Sikh procession

We ended up getting a bit lost and stuck in the middle of a Sikh procession before ‘stumbling across’ the mosque and then the Fort - which is huge and quite to miss – unless you’re us. Since travelling, Baby D’s impeccable sense of direction has deserted him and he is relying on me! What a laugh that is when my sense of direction (usually non-existent) is better than his.

That afternoon we went to Akshardham which is a fabulous complex which shows off Hindu culture and architecture. Unfortunately as seems to be the case at some of the most impressive sites, no photos were allowed. 

Chandra took us for dinner when we had finished at Akshardham. We were still into our street food, and it was goat's hoof this evening. The closest I could find online was something called paaya. I stuck to chicken kebab but gave the feet a go. It was all gristle and bone but the soup was good.

Goat's hoof

Our final day in Delhi and another meeting for me after a delicious breakfast of chole bhature. Chickpea curry, and a puffed up flat bread. Best breakfast yet. Baby D went for a massage while I was in my meeting (complete rip off allegedly…!) and we were off to the airport. Next stop, Varanasi.

Chole bhature

#india #delhi #cholebature #jamamasjid #redfortdelhi #indiagate #lotustemple #agra #tajmahal #akshardham

Goodbye UK, until we meet again

We are almost ready to rock and roll! 

Flat is rented, work is up to speed, Baby D has quit his job, jabs are up to date, goodbyes have been said (that was horrible!) and the biggest but maybe most fulfilling thing was the life laundry. Clearing through the flat, sorting bits for a car boot sale and the charity shop was cathartic! 

If had known how stressful it was to organise this trip we might have changed our minds and I can see why people do it when they have no commitments. 

Nervous, excited…and before you ask, I’ve packed 4 pairs of shoes (one pair of smart sandals for work, one pair of walking sandals, trail trainers which can be used for hiking and exercise, and flipflops). We have 2 microfibre towels each, a rain mac and a hoody each, sleeping bag liner for when it’s too filthy to cope and lots and lots of hand sanitiser and tissues!

Roll on 30 November...one way ticket to Delhi...

Two go travelling

We’re going on an adventure. What a drama, deciding what size backpack to buy! Should we take hiking boots or trainers or both? These decisions are blowing our minds, and we haven’t even got a renter for our flat lined up...

For two people that are maybe a bit vain, we can openly admit that when it comes to downsizing our luggage, being ruthless about what we take, and working out what we can realistically do or see in a limited amount of time, we are crap. 

Last count, I had 5 pairs of shoes and Baby D was taking his beard dye.

One year to backpack round 20 countries. One of us can’t do without hair gel, the other can’t do without hair straighteners...I’m sure this will go swimmingly.

We own a flat in London, we both have good fulltime jobs in London, and we are giving it all up for a year. Well, almost. I have somehow managed to convince my boss to let me work part time from wherever I am in the world.

So, why are we leaving it all behind?

I am 37. Baby D is 32. We have no dependents and travelling the world is something both of us have always wanted to do but never had the money/time/bottle to do it. We actually travel really well together even though we fight like cat and dog at home. We have both got busy jobs, get up early and sometimes find it an effort to be nice after a slog of a day at work. We have had some personal crap going on and we made a decision to take a break from the status quo for a while and disappear while we are young enough to be able to.

We are lucky in that we bought our flat in London for a ‘song’ (relatively speaking in London terms) and it’s done well in value in the few years we’ve been homeowners. We have taken out a few grand as a buffer and with my income from work, we should be able to travel fairly well. If all else fails I have my TEFL. And what about Baby D? He’s gonna be a beach bum (lad of leisure?), take a year off and reassess his life.

1. 30 November: one way ticket to Delhi. 1^st to 5th December, travelling Air India from Heathrow. Overnight train to Agra to see the Taj Mahal, then overnight train to Varanasi. Think about how many pairs of shoes we need to be lugging around in Agra if we are not staying over! Kolkata, Chennai, Kerala then Goa to meet our pals for Christmas and New Year. They are driving to India from London, so a true pair of crazies. Onto Mumbai, Rajasthan before...
2. ...Nepal. We are not planning on climbing Everest and we don’t have the gear or the time (or let’s face it, the energy) to climb to base camp. So the spanky new hiking boots will be left at home. We will trek in Nepal, but we will do a middle aged, low, slow route, and take our chances with trainers. I’m down to 4 pairs of shoes!
3. Burma. I mean Myanmar.
4. Laos, Cambodia, Thailand, Vietnam. Or another combination of the 4.
5. ...can we do it before the monsoon kicks in?
6. We visited Bali on holiday last year and found that it had year round sunshine. We fell in love with Bali but were disappointed that we didn’t see the quieter north of the island (fewer pissed up Aussies apparently) so we will be checking that out and taking the opportunity to see some other, less beaten track Indonesian islands.
7. This is where it gets difficult. Obviously we’re greedy and fancy Mexico and South America – Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Chile, Bolivia, Argentina and Brazil. No idea how we get there but hey ho, it’s an adventure. Someone has already suggested a trawler.

What have we got to think about?

I am sure we are forgetting something major, but...

Jabs. We’ve had diphtheria, typhoid, tetanus, yellow fever, hep A and B and rabies. Do you know how expensive vaccinations are?! Start early, not only do you need 2 or 3 lots of some of them with a certain amount of time in between, it helps you spread the cost! We were toying with the idea of Japanese encephalitis but will we really need it?!

Visas. Maybe I’m wrong, and I really hope I’m not but it looks like the only visa we need is for India. And that’s the first stop so we can do it all the paperwork from the comfort of home. Only needing a visa for India is not strictly true of course, but for the length of time we’ll be spending in each place, we will be able to get visas on arrival where we need them.

Bank cards! Make sure they aren’t going to run out halfway round the world.

Rent the flat. We need permission to let from the mortgage company but we can only get that after 6 months of being given the advance (the money we took out of the equity to help fund our travel). We need to empty the flat of our personal belongings, clean it properly, find tenants willing to leave after a year, get relevant insurance, deposit, tenancy agreement, gas and electric safety checks, arghh!

Fix the damp. We have lived with a small bit of penetrating damp in the bedroom. How ‘bout we leave it till we want to bugger off to get it fixed? Along with the broken doorbell, freehold issues that need to be resolved and a million and one other things?! Efficient as ever.

Work. Let’s not even go there. Everyone I work with needs to be brought up to speed and of course, everything starts going wrong as soon as it’s made public that I’m leaving. Or that’s what it feels like.

Mortgage. Our fixed rate runs out in March 2017, when we’re in Vietnam (or thereabouts).

What are going to take?! This is the hardest one! We need to think about the weather and what activities we are going to be doing. We are trying to follow the weather so we are taking summer clothes, with a pair of jeans, a fleece and a rain mac. The research we’ve done on this subject! I haven’t got any of it yet but we have those travel towels, sleeping bag inside bag, 4 pairs of shoes (1 of them is flipflops!), pack-a-mac, water purifying tablets, imodium coming out of our ears, the list goes on. I toyed with the idea of a chain over the backpack to deter thieves from slashing through the canvas, but Baby D vetoed that idea saying it would attract people as it might look like we had something valuable to protect.

Lots to do...stress levels are at crisis point! :D